Wondering what to do in Puglia, Italy? Looking for tips on vegan and vegetarian eating in Puglia (also called Apulia)? I’ve got you covered with this Puglia travel guide, which includes the top sights and plant-based eating in Puglia recommendations.
When one thinks of Southern Italy, what comes to mind first? Maybe it’s the ancient wonders of Pompeii and Herculaneum? Is it a slice of pizza in Naples, or, perhaps, the warm Sicilian sun? In Southern Italy, there are simply too many wonderful places to count, but it is abundantly clear: the region abounds with culture, and traditions—especially the culinary ones—are held very, very dear. One region in particular, located on the spur and heel of Italy’s boot, is a truly underrated gem: the region of Apulia. Apulia, or Puglia as it is called in Italian, has had its rich culinary culture influenced by peoples across the Mediterranean, over many millennia. One of the oldest regions in Italy, present day Puglia was formed near the end of the Cenozoic age, 11 million years ago. Sharing a long and storied history with nearby Sicily (at one point, they were even called the Kingdom of Two Sicilies!), some of the best influences of Greek, North African, and Spanish cuisine are on full display in its rustic but nourishing dishes. (Make sure to check out my guide on plant-based eating in nearby Sicily here!) And Puglia also offers an incredible array of sights during a laid-back trip. I thoroughly enjoyed my time in the charming Apulian countryside, and can’t wait to share some of my tips for plant-based dining in Puglia, as well as the best sights to see during your visit. I’m even sharing a few of my favorite Puglia recipes!
The Apulian Palate
Due to its pastoral culinary heritage—you’ll see mile after mile of farms dotting the landscape—meat was never as integral a part of traditional Apulian cuisine as in other regions of Italy. In fact, plant-based eating might be even easier in Puglia than it is in Sicily! Life moves slower here, but this is an active, deliberate choice—and something locals take much pride in. The bucolic life is often romanticized, and it is easy to forget that farming can be grueling work and this part of Italy has struggled with poverty, but perhaps that’s how the Pugliese learned how to make the best use of the literal fruits of their labor. Apulians know how to savor life and all its bounty.
The Breadbasket of Southern Italy
Puglia is a juggernaut when it comes to agricultural output, and boasts standout produce even within Southern Italy. Whether you’re driving through Puglia, or taking in the view via train, you’ll most definitely notice sprawling wheat fields and olive groves as far as the eye can see. Puglia is renowned particularly for its prized durum wheat, the base for its distinctive varieties of pasta and bread. Unlike the egg-based pastas of the northern regions, much of Puglia’s pasta is simply based on flour and water—convenient for plant-based eaters! The three most iconic Pugliese pastas—orecchiette, cavatelli, and tria, are all made this way.
Similarly renowned for its olive production, Puglia produces much of Italy’s olive oil. And perhaps it comes as no surprise, considering its Italy, but Puglia is no slouch when it comes to wine production, either. As it has ramped up its yield and reputation in recent years, Apulian wine culture is steadily growing in popularity and critical standing. Make sure to enjoy a variety of local white and red wines during your visit, which are very affordable in restaurants, wineries, and shops.
Market Culture in Puglia
Just like in Sicily, I recommend getting a small apartment or home to enjoy the rustic lifestyle in Puglia, and cook a little during your time. Italy’s market culture is second to none…and, naturally, Puglia’s is no exception! It’s not uncommon for Italians to visit their preferred mercato almost daily, picking up fresh ingredients on their commute. Taking in the sights and sounds at a local market is one of the best ways to engage with local culture. Supermarkets are fine, but if you have the time, traditional markets are the way to go!
Common Plant-Based Foods in Puglia
Meat has never been huge in Puglia (with seafood, naturally, being the most common animal protein in this coastal community). Historically, this was due to price and availability, but even today, the traditional standard remains. Meat was very much a luxury. The cucina povera is not an epithet of ridicule, but a point of pride for Italy’s gastronomy, as a whole. Puglia is one of the best regions to exemplify this concept: its traditional cuisine is most assuredly plant-based, high quality, and nutritious. And one of the best examples of Mediterranean excellence, full stop. Along with wheat and olives, you’ll find a variety of beans like fava and chickpeas, vegetables like squashes, greens, and tomatoes, herbs such as oregano and basil, and fruits such as grapes, citrus, and stone fruit making a regular appearance in traditional fare. Make sure to also enjoy rich coffee during your culinary travels in Puglia. Learn more about Mediterranean diets here.
Classic Puglia Plant-Based Cuisine
During your visit, look for some of Puglia’s most famous plant-based dishes.
- Altamura Bread. One of Italy’s 6 D.O.P. (Denominazione di Origine Protetta) breads, this legendary loaf, native to Altamura, has origins that date back further than even the Roman era! A definite must-try, if you’re in the area.
- Orecchiette. Meaning “little ears”, this beloved pasta is Bari’s (a major town in Puglia) pride and joy. Try it as orecchiette con cime di rapa—for plant-based eaters, this traditionally uses anchovies, but it is very easy to adapt this dish into a vegan-friendly version by asking your server to leave it off.
- Cavatelli. Similar to orecchiette, this pasta has a slightly different shape, but is just as good. Pairs just as well with cime di rapa (broccoli rabe).
- Tria. The least known of the three big Pugliese pastas, it is long and ribbon-like. The standout dish is cicere e tria—a hearty, chickpea-based dish that is traditionally vegan-friendly.
- Pasta di Mandorle. Beloved in Sicily, these almond cookies are masterfully done in Puglia as well. It’s traditionally butter-free, but try a vegan version that eschews egg whites!
- Taralli. These simple, savory, delicious crackers are ubiquitous in Puglia—made with just flour, salt, olive oil, and white wine.
- Acquasala. This refreshing tomato bread summer salad serves as a great use for stale bread, with a similar logic to panzanella.
- Friselle. This traditional Southern Italian bread is twice-baked. Pair with your favorite Mediterranean toppings, such as olives, tomatoes, and herbs!
- Fave e Cicoria. Fava beans and chicory—a humble dish, but delicious as anything else you’ll find, and very Pugliese.
- Sgagliozze. Another specialty from Bari, this is fried polenta dish. Polenta is very common in the north of Italy, but has become a beloved street food in the South.
- Aperol Spritz. This classic drink is beloved in Southern Italy, and the perfect cool down for a hot day.
Top Things to Do in Puglia
Though it’s a bit more off the beaten tourist path, that isn’t to say that Apulia is obscure in the slightest! Check out the iconic trulli houses of Alberobello, charming port towns like Bari and Lecce, splendid white-sand beaches, and mysterious sea caves and grottoes. There’s no doubt: in Puglia, you’ll find some of the best of what traditional Southern Italy has to offer. Try these top sights in Puglia, which were among my favorite things to see.
- Visit the Trulli Houses of Alberobello. You can spot the traditional cone shaped roofs and thick stone walls painted white called trulli around the countryside, but they are concentrated in the small village of Alberobello, where they have been turned into restaurants, bars, shops, and inns. You can even stay in a trulli on a farm, which is what I did during my trip to Puglia.
- Dip into the Sea at Polignano a Mare. Perched atop a 20-meter limestone cliff, this charming ancient town along the coast has roots that date back to 4th century. It was founded by Greek settlers and ruled by Romans. Today, its beauty attracts visitors to jump into the clear blue-green waters, and wander around the village for a meal or shopping.
- Grotte di Castellana. These caves are famous for their unique rock and limestone formations. You can take an easy guided tour to explore the caves, and enjoy a lovely meal or glass of wine in the nearby village.
- Enjoy the Old Port of Bari. The capital of the region, Bari offers view of high walls and castles that keep watch over the port. Bari vecchia is the heart of the city, with narrow alleyways, low hung balconies, charming restaurants, and cathedrals.
- Spend an Afternoon in Giovinazza. The old town’s buildings provide a beautiful backdrop for a few hours of wondering through the streets, visiting the cathedral and palazzos, and stopping for lunch or an early dinner.
- Admire Archeological sites of Lecce. Called the Florence of the South, Lecce is rich with baroque architecture, art, and ancient Roman remains.
- Take a Break in the Valle d’Itria. The heart of Puglia offers views of the lush Murgia hills on one hand, and a plain of farms that stretch to the sea with tiny towns dotted between.
Make Time for a Trip to Matera
Not far from Puglia is the unique, historic city of Matera, which lays claim to the title of the oldest continually inhabited city in the world. This ancient city of the Sassi—the stones of Matera—has been occupied since the Paleolithic period (10th millennium BC). The city, which is a UNESCO World Heritage site, began as a collection of cave habitations where people lived inrudimentary conditions until the 1950s, when they were forced to move to modern settlements. The newer medieval city, built right on top of the ancient Sassi, clung to the edge of the canyon for defense. Today, you can view ancient rock churches, gardens, and terraces in the maze of stone caves.
My Vegan Apulian Recipes
For other plant-based travel guides, check out the following: